
Sierra de San Francisco
The area has some of the richest and most ancient cave paintings in the world. Dating back 8,800 years, these prehistoric paintings are in gullies, ravines and caves. They are remarkable for their size, quality and condition. The cave paintings were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993.
The Baja California peninsula has one of the most extraordinary arrays of cave paintings in the country. It remained virtually unexplored and isolated until way into the twentieth century, which kept the indigenous peoples relatively apart from mainland influences, allowing complex local cultures to develop. The mass production of rock art since very ancient times is one of the most notable features of the prehistory of the peninsula.
The Sierra of San Francisco reaches a height of 5,200 feet above sea level. The most spectacular and best conserved sites are contained in an area covering of approximately 1,390 square miles. This provided the best conditions for hunter-gatherer groups to thrive from the late Pleistocene, 10,000 years before the present, until the arrival of Jesuit missionaries at the end of the seventeenth century. The beauty of the countryside and the vegetation of the canyons and mesas add to the aesthetic value of the art.
The numerous and highly varied painted surfaces are extraordinarily well preserved. Their creators succeeded in producing imagery which demonstrates to us that small scale societies with economies based hunting, fishing and gathering were capable of developing sophisticated systems of symbols, which to a large extent reflect their world view. The style is essentially realistic and is dominated by figures of humans, terrestrial and aquatic animals designed in red, black, white and yellow. Very often the largest images are larger than life. Their monumental size is accentuated by the fact that the paintings are often located high up on the slabs and overhangs of rock shelters. The overlaying of figures is very common. There is also an abundance of petroglyph sites which bring together thousands of individual figures.
The Jesuits were the first to describe the “great murals” in the eighteenth century, although it was not till later that Harry Crosby, the US historian and photographer, coined this expression, which has been widely accepted. Leon Diguet, an industrial chemist working in the French El Boleo copper mine in Santa Rosalía, explored the Sierras of San Francisco and Guadalupe in 1894.
Archeological work on the Sierra indicates that the practices of painting and engraving lasted for a long period of time and were of essential importance to the indigenous world view. European chroniclers and missionaries recorded some ritual practices and the artifacts used in these. A few of these artifacts have been recognized in the rock paintings and have also been found in the archeological excavations of the site.
Walkways, protective rails, fences, access paths and information signs have been installed to protect the integrity of the site and to avoid the deterioration of the paintings in the most visited great mural sites which can be visited by road or with short walks, and which require a permit to visit. There are other sites which also require a permit to visit and can be reached by mule or by a trek, in which case it is necessary to camp in the areas designated specifically for this purpose. There is an INAH information module in the city of San Ignacio which serves a dual purpose: as a photographic exhibition gallery and as a booking and orientation center for visitors to the Sierra.
- Dirección del Centro INAHAlfredo Feria Cuevasalfredo_feria@inah.gob.mx+52 (612) 122 7389Delegado Centro INAHMaría de la Luz Gutiérrez Martínezluz_gutierrez@inah.gob.mx+52 (612) 123 0399
Cañón de Santa Teresa
Santa Teresa Canyon is in the middle part of San Pablo Creek, the longest of the hydrographic system of the Sierra de San Francisco (35 km). It is very deep and has very steep slopes with innumerable natural hollows, the result of wind, rain and river erosion.
Santa Teresa Canyon is in the middle part of San Pablo Creek, the longest of the hydrographic system of the Sierra de San Francisco (35 km). It is very deep and has very steep slopes with innumerable natural hollows, the result of wind, rain and river erosion. In Santa Teresa there are many sites containing rock art, which is why it has been called the Galleries of Santa Teresa.
To visit the Santa Teresa Galleries requires camping in the area for about three days. The expeditions leave from the Guadalupe ranch and, 1.5 km from San Francisco de la Sierra, is the Cacarizo, which along with the Granadillo and Santa Teresa are the only campsites authorized by INAH. The purpose of this measure is to protect the fragile balance of the environment, which is also of incomparable natural beauty.
View during the descent: View of Santa Teresa Canyon during the descent. In the background is the San Julio hill.
View from El Cacarizo: Panoramic view of the Santa Teresa Canyon from the place called El Cacarizo. Here is the most spectacular oasis of the Sierra de San Francisco.
Typical vegetation: Aspect that keeps the typical vegetation of the slopes of the intermontane canyons before the rains come.
Final road to the oasis: Final section of the road leading to the Santa Teresa Canyon oasis. This is what the vegetation of the riparian habitats looks like during the rainy season.
Oasis: The Santa Teresa Canyon oasis as seen from the creek bed.
Cueva La Pintada
It is perhaps the cave with the most extraordinary examples of rock art in the Sierra de San Francisco. The cave is one of the largest in the sierra with a dimension of 175 m from one end to the other.
It is perhaps the cave with the most extraordinary examples of rock art in the Sierra de San Francisco. The cave is one of the largest in the sierra with a dimension of 175 m from one end to the other. The good preservation of the murals is remarkable, as well as the density of the superimposed layers in some of the panels. It is possible that the paintings reflect the physical, social and cultural environment of their creators.
There are no historical sources that explain the process of creation of these murals, there are only some references on the part of the chroniclers that relate that, when the natives were questioned about the origin of the paintings, they referred to a legend transmitted from parents to children, according to which many years ago, fleeing from the north, a race of giants had arrived to the region. A part of them continued towards the south following the coast and the others went into the mountains and were the authors of the paintings.
Likewise, the paintings manifest certain symbolic associations between the different representations, which occur through superimposition. Even the deliberate placement of one design on top of another could imply a ritual action at the time of painting, a phenomenon that is obvious in La Pintada Cave, especially in the first set of images, where human, zoomorphic, abstract and composite figures are profusely mixed; in some cases, this relationship is harmonious and dynamic. The paints were prepared with natural pigments; the red, orange and yellow colors were obtained from iron oxides, very abundant in the area; the black is manganese oxide and the white pigment is gypsum, properly speaking. The pigments were reduced to powder in metates or mortars, which can still be seen inside the cave, and an agglutinant was added to give them consistency and allow their application. This formula was so successful that it has allowed their permanence at the site, as well as the extraordinary preservation of the color.
The second of the panels of La Pintada Cave is at a considerable height, a reason for speculation regarding the difficulty involved in its elaboration, which suggests the great skill of the authors, who were also excellent stone workers, weavers of cords and nets of agave, palm and datilillo fibers; they worked ornaments of shell, bone and wood, so it is to be assumed that they could have built scaffolding, ladders or any other structure that allowed them to reach the highest parts of the caves.
The last panel of the cave is very unique due to the distribution and balance of the forms, as well as the representation of the designs. There is a group of human and animal figures, almost all life-size. Also striking is the figure of an enormous marine animal, apparently a composite animal, half whale, half seal. A peculiar aspect of the group is the use of natural reliefs to enhance special characteristics in human and animal forms, such as the representation of pregnancy in a female human figure. Some figures wear plumes or headdresses, which gives them a certain identity, and perhaps represent sorcerers, shamans or group leaders, as the chronicles of the first missionaries describe headdresses similar to those observed.
Panoramic view: Panoramic view of La Pintada Cave, Sierra de San Francisco. The oasis of Cañón de Santa Teresa and its palm grove can be seen.
Sector of the central panel: A sector of the central panel of La Pintada Cave. It highlights a deer with the body painted in black and yellow and two birds in flight, apparently vultures. The intense overlapping of figures can be appreciated.
Central Panel: Not all the Great Mural paintings are of great dimensions; it includes some small ones as it is appreciated in this group of two birds, a human figure and a rabbit. The scale measures 10 cm.
East end panel: Panoramic view of the rock panel located at the east end of La Pintada Cave. These figures are of enormous dimensions, even larger than life size.
Detail of the panel at the east end: Detail of the cave panel at the east end of La Pintada Cave. In the center of the composition are a male and a female bighorn sheep.
Composite animal: One of the most enigmatic figures in La Pintada Cave. It is a composite animal: the upper part corresponds to a whale, the lower part to a seal. Some authors claim that it is a representation of a seal.
Detail of the panel at the east end: Detail of the rock panel at the east end of La Pintada Cave. Male and female fused with a red male deer; the abdomen of the deer was designed taking advantage of the protuberance of the stone support. The women are distinguished by the breasts designed below the armpits.
Cueva de las Flechas
Here the theme is very specific and is basically composed of three sets of images. The central set is one of the most enigmatic. In it stand out human beings of considerable size, with very prominent headdresses.
Here the theme is very specific and is basically composed of three sets of images. The central set is one of the most enigmatic. In it stand out human beings of considerable size, with very prominent headdresses. On the shoulders of two of these personages (left and center) small inverted figures were represented. This is a type of spatial symbolic association with a double manifestation: 1) the orientation of the figures, that is, in reverse, and 2) the spatial location in relation to the shoulders of the characters, one profusely arrowed. The central character and the one to his right give the cave its name. Both are pierced by a large number of arrows, perhaps signifying the commemoration of a war episode. It could also have a metaphorical meaning, since in those societies the sorcerers or shamans used the metaphor of death to represent their contact with the supernatural. In the right panel there are zoomorphic figures that perhaps represent a procession of deer, pronghorn and bighorn sheep, which would relate hunting to the propitiatory magic that benefits the hunter. The continuous representation of hunting animals was probably due to the fact that this activity, being difficult, dangerous and basic for the subsistence of the group, was related to magic and religion, which could grant a special power to the hunter to protect him and augur good hunting.
Panoramic view of Cueva de las Flechas: The site as seen from Cueva La Pintada.
Main panel: The figures are clearly visible.
Male deer: Superimposed on this animal is a black vulture.
Human figures: The name of this cave is due to the fact that two of these figures are profusely arrowed. The headdresses they wear are very interesting; on the lower part of the human figures there are small animals.
Cueva de La Soledad
It is located on the northern slope of the ravine of the same name. The left panel of the cave presents human and animal figures, highlighting those of deer and birds in red and black, some pierced by arrows or spears.
It is located on the northern slope of the ravine of the same name. The left panel of the cave presents human and animal figures, highlighting those of deer and birds in red and black, some pierced by arrows or spears. The design of the wings is notable, which are rounded and recall certain headdresses seen in some human figures. These birds differ from the typical representations of vultures, as they are characterized by their semirectangular outline and emphasize the representation of the rows of feathers.
There are some cases where abstract figures are exhibited, as in the extreme right of this cave, where geometric lines, straight lines and curves form symbols with an as yet unknown meaning.
Central Panel: Central Panel of La Soledad Cave, composed of human figures, male and female deer, and birds.
Northeast end: This group is composed of a bighorn sheep, a deer and a male human figure superimposed on both animals.
Grid: Northeast end of the Cueva de La Soledad. The Gran Mural tradition is essentially naturalistic; however, some panels have associated abstract designs. They are usually grids or chessboards. They could be representing entoptic forms, that is, visions experienced during altered states of consciousness similar to trance.
Bird: Detail of the bird located in the central sector of the main panel of the Cueva de La Soledad. It could be the representation of a crow; this site was once known as Pájaro Negro (Black Bird) due to the presence of this figure.
Cueva Boca de San Julio
It is located northwest of El Cacarizo, a 30-minute walk along the main channel of the San Pablo stream, where it meets the San Julio ravine.
It is located northwest of El Cacarizo, a 30-minute walk along the main channel of the San Pablo stream, where it meets the San Julio ravine. The panel of this place looks a little like one of those of the Cueva de las Flechas and its dynamism and balance emphasize the harmonious relationship of the whole.
It is almost composed of zoomorphic figures, which transmit the sensation of movement through the position of the front and back limbs, the inclination of the head and the angle of the body's axis with respect to the horizontal. Hunting is a frequent theme in rock art. It is believed that the painting of these scenes, together with certain shamanic rituals, ensured good hunting.
Panoramic view of the Boca de San Julio Cave: The name of this site is due to the fact that it is located at the beginning of the San Julio gully, a tributary of the San Pablo stream.
Central Panel Sector: Some Great Mural panels are distinguished by the predominance of animal figures. In this case, the scene is dominated by what seems to be a procession of male and female deer.
Cueva de La Música
Small rocky shelter located in front of the Boca de la Cañada de San Julio, composed mainly by a group of human figures that seem to be arranged in a grid, which gives name to the cave, because these lines resemble a pentagram where the figures, with raised arms, would be the musical notes.
Small rocky shelter located in front of the Boca de la Cañada de San Julio, composed mainly by a group of human figures that seem to be arranged in a grid, which gives name to the cave, because these lines resemble a pentagram where the figures, with raised arms, would be the musical notes.
The figures have headdresses or plumes and half of the body is painted red, with a longitudinal cut. This is a characteristic of some panels of the saw, also notorious in others, although they only exhibit the sketches in white. The animal figures are shown in a secondary plane. Each element seems to have a defined position, perhaps with a ritual sense, within the whole.
Cueva del Ratón
It is located 1100 meters above sea level, in a small gully on the southern bank of the San Pablo stream. The cave is formed by materials of volcanic and sedimentary origin, which allowed a good conservation of the paintings, although it is semi-covered by a blackish layer, of organic origin.
It is located 1100 meters above sea level, in a small gully on the southern bank of the San Pablo stream. The cave is formed by materials of volcanic and sedimentary origin, which allowed a good conservation of the paintings, although it is semi-covered by a blackish layer, of organic origin. This enclosure was used as a room by a rancher at the beginning of the 19th century. Distributed along the back wall and ceiling are paintings of human forms, deer, pronghorns, bighorn sheep, hares and even a puma. Some figures can be identified by their hooves, antlers or the shape of their snouts; there are also abstract geometric figures, such as squares and stripes alternating red and black.
There is a great variation in the size of the figures, although in general terms they are large and medium-sized; the small figures represent hares, hinds and some male anthropomorphs. One element that stands out is the puma. The red and black human figure located above the puma, which has a black oval in the facial area, is also noteworthy. There is also a deer decorated with geometric designs, something singular in this rock art.
Main panel: Apparently the name of this site is due to the black puma located at the lower right of the composition, which, according to the locals, was identified as a mouse by the ranchers who repopulated these mountains during the first half of the twentieth century.
Detail of the main panel: On the upper left is part of the figure of a red pronghorn with a black belly, which is identified by its characteristic antlers. The scene includes a human figure painted in red and black, whose face has a black oval. The chromatic component of the human figures has been identified as body and facial painting patterns.


