
Cuicuilco
The Xitle volcano of the Ajusco range erupted in about 250 AD, spewing out lava that covered up much of the Valley of Mexico’s first major city, one which had existed for a thousand years with its unique truncated cone pyramids. Today we can still marvel at what remains.
An important city in the Valley of Mexico, perhaps the first and most powerful of that time. Founded in around 2100 BC, near the Zacatépetl mountain range and Chalco lake. In its earliest phase it was a group of agricultural and fishing villages. By 800 BC, however, it seems to have transformed into a complex city and a hub for trade, as it lay at the intersection of routes leading to the valleys of Toluca and Morelos. It was undoubtedly a religious center, with the old god of fire, Huehueteotl, occupying an important place in the pantheon. This sacred aspect of the site is evident from the name later given to it by the Mexica: "the place of song and dance."
Everything pointed to a promising future, as there was no shortage of supplies or natural resources. The settlement also produced a variety of finely crafted ceramics; discoveries have been made of splendid artefacts from three periods (between 600 and 200 BC), particularly the tripods with lids shaped like a bird’s head. Cuicuilco possibly competed commercially with the nascent Teotihuacan, until Xitle, a volcano in the Ajusco range, became active in around the year 250 AD. We know that the volcano began by sending up gas and ash into the atmosphere, before a devastating eruption took place. A thick layer of lava expanded widely, covering both the city and the surrounding landscape—the present-day Pedregal de San Ángel district. The eruption was so violent that it affected an area of nearly 1,000 acres, and in places the lava layer was up to 33 feet thick. The survivors scattered; many appear to have sought refuge in Teotihuacan.
The remains of Cuicuilco include the Great Pyramid with its elliptical base, constructed between 800 and 600 BC (Zone A); the Circular Mound of Peña Pobre (Zone B); the Pyramid of Tenantongo in the Bosque de Tlalpan park (Zone B), and the circular-based construction now found in the Olympic Village (Zone C). Mexico City’s subsequent expansion—particularly in the twentieth century—has led to modern constructions being built over much of the land where, deep underground, there may remain vestiges of the pre-Hispanic city. This has made it very difficult for any further explorations and discoveries to be made. However, archeological work in the lava-free areas (Zone A) has revealed some weapons (the “atlatl” or dart gun), obsidian objects, and stone beads; some burial sites have also been found, containing the remains of human bodies curled up and with cranial deformations.
Manuel Gamio led the first explorations of Cuicuilco’s Great Pyramid in 1915 and 1920, enabling the site to be located with some precision. He continued excavations between 1922 and 1925, assisted by Byron Cummings and with the support of the University of Arizona and the National Geographic Society, always focusing on the main pyramid. In the 1930s, Eduardo Noriega excavated the surrounding area and found vaulted chambers, burials, ceramics, and altars. It was not until 1966 that Roberto Gallegos, in a project coordinated by the INAH, resumed work in Zone B of what is now the Olympic Village; this led to the discovery of 183 burial sites and a house belonging to the original city. In 1978 the area was completely restored, and it was later expanded in 1980; between 1984 and 1987 Manuel Gándara’s team discovered a circular-based construction in the Loreto and Peña Pobre park. In 1996, Mario Pérez Campa found a 12.8-foot-high column to the south of the Great Pyramid, complete with inscriptions that might be the earliest astronomical records of ancient Mexico yet to have been discovered.
A site museum, containing objects found during the excavations, is also open to visitors.
- Subdirección de Investigación y ConservaciónLaura Castañeda Cerecerolaura_castaneda@inah.gob.mx+52 (55) 5522 4108
Cuicuilco A
It is the best known complex of Cuicuilco and to which the entire site owes its name. It consists of the Great Circular Basement, the Altars, Kiva, Building E-1, and the Stela.
It is the best known complex of Cuicuilco and to which the entire site owes its name. It consists of the Great Circular Basement, the Altars, Kiva, Building E-1, and the Stela.
Great Circular Basement: This building was built between 800 and 150 B.C. through successive extensions, of which we know of at least eight. Its enormous surface allowed the attendance of large groups of people to religious ceremonies in the upper part of the basement. The two access ramps, located to the east and west, are aligned with the equinoxes, as are the central altars dating from different periods. Formed with unworked volcanic stone, weighing more than 30 kg, joined without lime mortar, surrounding a central core of compacted earth 110 m in diameter and 25 m in height.
The Kiva: Structure with ceremonial functions, built around 150 B.C. with large slabs of volcanic stone, called andesite, and river pebbles. The interior was decorated with linear designs painted with hematite red (iron oxide), making it one of the earliest examples of architectural painting.
Structure E1: Here a burial was found that contained, in addition to the skeleton, an offering with ceramic objects, a necklace and two figurines representing a man and a woman. Its construction dates from the Late Preclassic period (400 B.C.-200).
In the southern half there is the platform of an earlier, smaller building, which was covered when E-1 was built.
The Stela: It is located to the south of the Great Basement. It is an adesite monolith, almost 4 m high with a rectangular prism shape. In the north face it presents carved motifs that constitute one of the earliest known ideographic registries. In the upper part there is a vertical series of three rhombuses and underneath two parallel series of eight convex circles. It seems that the Stela is the first known representation of the axis mundi (the axis of the world), a sacred element that is located in the center of the world and communicates the three planes of the universe: the underworld, the earth's surface and the heavens.
The Altars: At the center of each one of the surfaces corresponding to the extensions or epochs of the Great Basement, semirectangular altars of low height were located, between 0.40 m and 1.30 m on an east-west axis. These constructions were protected by shrines of perishable material. Four of the altars belong to the first three constructive stages of the building, they are made of compacted earth and painted with red pigment (cinnabar), an element of great ceremonial importance. The fifth altar is made of river pebbles and the last one possibly of volcanic stone. The existence of several more altars has been demonstrated, although only the upper half of the building has been explored.
Cuicuilco B
It includes the basements and temples called Building IX or Heizer, Building VI, Building VII and The Palace.
Heizer Building: Built entirely of compacted earth, semicircular in shape. Its extreme southern half is still under the lava remains of the Xitle volcano.
It includes the basements and temples called Building IX or Heizer, Building VI, Building VII and The Palace.
Heizer Building: Built entirely of compacted earth, semicircular in shape. Its extreme southern half is still under the lava remains of the Xitle volcano.
Building VI: It is one of the latest constructions in the area, built approximately between 400 B.C. and 250 B.C. It is located to the west of the Heizer Building on a platform and has a rectangular base.
Building VIII: Like Building VI, it is one of the later constructions. It is located to the west of the Heizer Building and has a rectangular base.
The Palace: Religious and residential building. During its exploration, 24 burials were discovered.



