
Ex Convento de Santa María Magdalena Cuitzeo
The Augustinian order’s fifth monastery in Michoacan, was built very much like a fortress in 1550. It was a center for evangelizing the Tarascans and for training priests for this work. This great building was notable for the great masters and pupils who lived and worked here. Restored to its grandeur, it houses exhibitions on the art of printing.
One of the best preserved sixteenth-century monasteries in Mexico, nearly all of the original spaces are still extant. In 2004 INAH restored its roofs, walls, paintings, sculptures and books with the support of the federal government, the government of the state of Michoacan, the municipality of Cuitzeo and the “Adopt a Work of Art” charity in Morelia.
Cuitzeo used to be the principal town of what is known as the Chupicuaro culture, an off-shoot of the Purepecha fiefdom around 1500. It is situated in north central Michoacan, in the peninsular extension of the Cerro de Manuna (“evening star” in Tarascan) which juts out into the lake of Cuitzeo.
The Augustinians converted the region’s populace to Christianity and transformed the local economy. Around 1548 Don Vasco de Quiroga granted the priory of the future convent to Father Fray Francisco de Villa Fuerte, head of the religious foundation of the place. The friar was an expert missionary, and along with Fray Miguel de Alvarado, they managed to consolidate and extend the evangelization begun by the Franciscan Fray Juan de San Miguel, and they began to build the church, monastery and to rebuild the hospital (the Indian Chapel), and at the same time they started work on a new plan for the indigenous town. Fray Diego de Chávez implemented the work with the participation of Pedro de Toro, always with a large and skillful Tarascan labor force. It is important to mention the delicate sumptuousness of the monasteries designed by the Augustinians, with their beautiful wall and ceiling paintings.
The old Santa María Magdalena monastery consists of a church, monastery, atrium and garden. The decoration of the church facade is in Plateresque style, with its predominance of straight lines and simple ornamentation. In Europe the order was involved with silver work. The doorway is notable for its refined columns which imitate candelabras, the stone carving has traces of plant imagery with feint climbing plants, and its angels and hearts are in complete harmony, lending it a sober balance. The facade has a half-circle rounded arch. On the second floor the stained glass window of the choir represents Mary Magdalene washing the feet of Jesus, and the keystone in the center of the arch stands out with a shield depicting the heart of the Redeemer above the three nails from the cross overlaid as a star, the symbol of the Augustinians.
A covered niche in the final section of the facade has a sculpture of St. Mary Magdalene. On the sides there are two shields crowned with an indigenous diadem and feathers and the quarters feature some large jars or pots and some pelicans, the former referring to the name of the place, since Cuitzeo in Tarascan means “place of the large pots on the water,” while the latter refer to the native birds of the lake, and since mother pelicans feed their chicks with their own blood, they symbolize the Holy Spirit and the Mother Church. The final section has another shield in the center, the Austrian double-headed eagle is a reference to Charles V and Philip II, while the pointed heads of the eagle bow to the heart of Jesus in the center. The temple has a single nave with a barrel vault and bell tower.
All this decoration is carved in relief from stone. The accuracy of the work is a testament to the mastery of the indigenous craftsmen, who learned their skills before the Spanish arrived.
As with old monastic constructions in Europe, the atrium was not absent. Architecturally, it resembled its European counterparts, but the difference lay in its functions: it was a multifunctional space used for doctrinal instruction, with a stone cross at its center, a cemetery, an open chapel, a cistern, and four "capillas posas" (wayside chapels).
Upper Cloister
This area stands out for its gargoyles—whimsical figures that create a visual harmony in combination with the soft arches and slender double columns that break the otherwise sober design of the complex.
This area stands out for its gargoyles—whimsical figures that create a visual harmony in combination with the soft arches and slender double columns that break the otherwise sober design of the complex.
The gargoyles served to channel rainwater from the roof or upper floors of the convent down to the courtyard drains and into the cisterns. Artistically carved as infernal creatures, they served as a reminder of the constant presence of evil in the world. This is why the word "gargoyle" is often associated with demons or monsters today.
Lower Cloister
Comprising corridors, arches, courtyard, cistern, "sala de profundis" (mourning room), refectory, storerooms, kitchen, stables, and gardens.
Comprising corridors, arches, courtyard, cistern, "sala de profundis" (mourning room), refectory, storerooms, kitchen, stables, and gardens.
The courtyard collected rainwater into a large cistern from which water was drawn via a well. The corridors were used for walking and meditation; the refectory was the communal dining area; nearby were the kitchen, storage rooms for food and utensils, stables, workshops, and gardens.
The mural paintings throughout the corridors and spaces of the convent were important visual documents depicting biblical scenes, the lives of saints, and notable Church figures. The murals in the lower cloister focused on the Passion of Christ (lunettes at the arc corners), Saint Augustine (niches on the south wall), the apostles (medallions on the frieze near the top of the walls), and the monograms of Jesus and Mary.
A 16th-century confessional interrupts the molding on the north wall.
Gardens
The friars cultivated a wide variety of vegetables and fruits. From Europe, they introduced lettuce, cabbage, radish, lentil, turnip, eggplant, garlic, onion, broad beans, and chickpeas. Native crops included corn, beans, chili, "quelite", squash, maguey, and "nopal".
The friars cultivated a wide variety of vegetables and fruits. From Europe, they introduced lettuce, cabbage, radish, lentil, turnip, eggplant, garlic, onion, broad beans, and chickpeas. Native crops included corn, beans, chili, "quelite", squash, maguey, and "nopal". They also planted American fruit trees such as sapote, "mamey", "capulín", pineapple, avocado, and guava, as well as European species like peach, fig, pear, apple, pomegranate, quince, orange, watermelon, lemon, and banana.
Church
The façade was designed to indicate that the church was dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene. Although the Augustinian friars preached poverty, they believed that the monumental scale of the buildings, with their intricate carvings, made a lasting impression on the faithful.
The façade was designed to indicate that the church was dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene. Although the Augustinian friars preached poverty, they believed that the monumental scale of the buildings, with their intricate carvings, made a lasting impression on the faithful.
Porter's Lodge or Pilgrims' Portal
The porter’s lodge, also known as the pilgrims’ portal, was the space the friars used to celebrate Mass. Upon approaching the entrance portal of the convent, one can observe that the walls are decorated with paintings.
The porter’s lodge, also known as the pilgrims’ portal, was the space the friars used to celebrate Mass. Upon approaching the entrance portal of the convent, one can observe that the walls are decorated with paintings. These are called frescoes, as the technique used involved applying colored pigments onto freshly plastered walls so that the paint would be absorbed and last for a long time.
One of the scenes depicted on the northern wall is the Last Judgment. The inclusion of this theme reflects the missionaries’ emphasis on the fear of God, true conversion, and sincere repentance, all in light of the prophesied end of the world according to the Gospel of John.
Refectory
This was a large dining room where all the friars gathered for their meals. Aligned with this area were the kitchen, storerooms for all kinds of foodstuffs, grains, and utensils, the stables, workshops, and the garden.
This was a large dining room where all the friars gathered for their meals. Aligned with this area were the kitchen, storerooms for all kinds of foodstuffs, grains, and utensils, the stables, workshops, and the garden.
- DirecciónLidia Ibis Cortés Ambriz+52 (455) 357 0175




